Rules for a TYW War Game

All about War Games

A War Game Digest Special Study in depth on a particular war game including organization and rules.
By Jack Scruby

In June of 1967 in the first issue of “Miniature Parade” I advertised One-Inch scale Scruby Miniatures of the THIRTY YEARS WAR. I included with this listing a couple of stories with ideas for rules for this type of war game.

Since then, as readers of later Scruby Publications will know, I have reported some of the interesting battles we have had using these soldiers. These games proved to be some of the best small scale actions David Rusk and I have ever had, and as a change of pace war game from the standard large-scale (in numbers anyway) Napoleonic battles, it is at the top of our estimation.

As one might suspect, sales of these 30 Year War models did not set the world on fire although those people whom I have met who use my soldiers for war games of this period are wild about their game!

As a result of lack of sales, however, I dropped this line from my 1971 catalogue. This war is unique however, and rather than design­ing a whole new series in a smaller scale, I decided to “revive” these particular one-inch scale models.

One reason for keeping to the one-inch scale for the 30 Year War miniatures is that this is not a “large-scale” war game, and one does not need to have thousands of models to make the game right. Historically the ar­mies of the times were small, so that a “scale” representation historically will not fill the average war game table up completely with mo­del soldiers!

Secondly, the uniforms are much fun paint, and in one-inch scale models, the player can go all out with color to brighten his armies.

To paint these troops, the best source is Volume I of the Funcken book “Le Costume et Les Armes des Soldats de Tous Ie Temps”, available through any book shop these days. In full color the Funckens have several pages of soldiers of this war, and we suggest you purchase this book right off if you plan to go into wargaming in this period. It is av­ailable at most book shops, or through book dealers.

While on the subject of uniforms, there seems to have been no standard “uniform” as such for any soldiers during the 30 Years War though some sources believe the Swedish sol­diers may have been uniformed – at least by regiment. Thus, you can paint your “brigades” as you see fit. I might add that I have found Shining Armor Household Enamel silver, gold and bronze to be the best paints for armor I have yet run across. This brand seems to be available at most hardware or paint stores.

Several months ago, after all these thoughts had traveled through my .mind, I began to re-design the One-Inch scale Scruby 30 Year War models. I planned that these figures would be sold through Ambrite Indus­tries as “Ready-Cast” models, which meant they would be stocked ahead for quick deliv­ery, and that prices would be cheaper than the original castings had been. I felt that making these particular figures into our “Ready-Cast” process, would give them a better chance on the market.

In order to prepare models for our Ready­Cast process, much work is involved and each figure must be specially prepared. Despite the work involved, the results are most grati­fying, and I believe our buyers will find the new models are much better than the old ones. Being ready-cast, they also are cheaper than the original ones were in 1967!

And one major change is the fact that we now cast the pikes in the hands of the pike men, where before, the buyer had to solder or glue piano wire pikes into their hands. This can be a hassle if you don’t know what you’re doing. Of course, tin alloy pikes may bend or corkscrew from handling, but they can be bent back into shape. If they break off eventually, you can solder or epoxy steel pikes on.

Thus our new models of the 30 Years War are cheaper than before; are stocked for quick delivery; are better models physically than the old ones; have little or no flash on them to clean. With all these advantages to start with, let’s get you started in war gaming with them by de living deeper into the subject:


The 30 Years War began in 1618, and during its long course, the transition in warfare and weapons was remarkable. Wargamers tend to ig­nore the horrible facts of wars and look only at the interesting side, and it is as well for this particular war was probably one of the worst of world history!

Technically, the war began as an “armored” war, fought in much the manner of medie­val warfare with heavily armored cavalry, massed pikemen, and with most missile fire being the cross bow, plus a few muskets of horrible de­sign.

Gradually, musket fire power increased, and tactics began to change. Armored knights on horseback dropped some of their armor to get more mobility, grabbed hand pistols in­stead of lances, and now used the “caracole” fire pattern to sweep ranks of immobile pike­men with pistol fire.

To compensate for this, the ratio of musketeers to pikemen grew more equal, and the addition of this firepower to a pike square could hold off cavalry with long range fire, thus protecting the pikes from the dead­ly pistol fire. If the going got too tough the Musketeers were trained to dash inside the pike square for safety.

The Sword and Buckler man had been very strong in the early days of the war, but the musket soon proved the equalizer, and these men became the skirmishers, since they could move easier without the cumbersome pike to contend with. They were known as the “lost children” because of the suicide-type work they did on the battle ground.

Under Gustavus Adolphus of Sweden, Ar­tillery came into its own during this war. For the first time mobile artillery was used, and great havoc was wrought on the massed humanity within pike squares by these guns. As a consequence, new tactical formations were used that bunched men up in smaller units so that losses might be held down.

In working up a set of rules for the 30 Years War, it is best not to get too bogged down with all these great changes in weapons and tactics. If you do, you may ruin a good war game. In my own rules, I took the most obvious points of combat during the 30 years period, and incorporated them into my game with happy results. I suspect the purist may protest the fact that my cavalry use caracole fire, whether my battle happens to be fought in 1618 or 1648, when it took quite a few years of action before this type of fire was actually developed.

But, to each his own, and I suggest that those interested in this war get hold of all the excellent books on the subject and study it. I’m certain you’ll find it a fascinating subject.


In Visalia we use the Roster System and the Unit Efficiency value, and as a result all the model soldiers are mounted (glued) on balsa wood moving stands. Our armies are mod­eled along the lines of organization one would find in the middle years of the war, when Musketeers equaled Pikemen in numbers.

Our “brigade” of infantry is standardized at 20 Pikemen, 20 Musketeers and 10 Swordsmen. Moving stands of balsa wood are 4 inches long and one inch wide. Five model soldiers are mounted on each stand, representing a “company” or “band” of infantry.

This type of moving stand makes it poss­ible to maneuver your brigade into squares, column or line with ease. And the T/O makes it easy to form up new “brigades” based on the same standard as time and money will allow. It also is easy to beef up a brigade by adding specialized troops to it, as we shall see.

Our castings also allow for some variety within an infantry brigade. A “heavy infantry” bri­gade can be formed using the armored Pikemen (Castings N-90, 92, 93) and thus are limited in maneuverability as a result.

Light Infantry brigades can be formed using the Halbardier casting (N-108) or the Landsknecht Pikeman (N-110), and since these men are lightly armored, or unarmored, they can maneuver more easily. Swordsmen and Musketeers in the brigade are more agile than pikemen so the term “heavy” or “light” applies to the pikemen within the unit.

We have two types of Artillery; Brigade artillery and Reserve Artillery. Brigade art­illery is the Small Cannon and there is one attached to each infantry brigade in our organ­ization.

This small gun can be moved, but it takes one game move to load it, and if it is being moved it cannot be loaded. As a consequence the smart general often saves this firepower for emergency action. Never-the-less it is a fairly powerful weapon on the field.

The Reserve Gun is the Large Cannon cast­ing we advertise, and we generally limit these to two or three per army, depending on the size of your army. These guns have a long range, but must take two game moves to re­load, and once set up in position prior to the battle, they can not be moved!

The guns are mounted on a square piece of balsa, but the Gunners (N-10l) are not glued to this stand. This is because our rules allow the gunners to fire off a shot, then dash to safety behind a wall of pikemen if the gun is attacked.

Cavalry are mounted on a 4 inch by 2 inch stand of balsa wood. Heavy cavalry have 4 models per stand, Light cavalry 3 per stand. This is done for identification purposes, not for an combat purposes. We find it easier to identify cavalry in this manner, and the num­bers of the model does not cut down, or en­large the combat values of the cavalry.

In my organization, two such stands make a “troop” of cavalry. I did this so that I could enjoy a variety of cavalry uniforms, rather than because of any historic reason. Light and Heavy cavalry should be about equal in your army, and since there were lots of cavalry in this war, we generally have 4 stands of cavalry for each full brigade of infantry.

Thus, with these “standard” troops com­posing a 3 Infantry brigade army, you’d wind up with 12 stands of pikemen, 12 stands of musketeers, 6 stands of swordsmen, 6 stands of heavy cavalry, 6 stands of light cavalry, 3 small cannons and 2 large cannons. This makes a good, balanced war game army to fight with.

Of course, we have some specialized men, and of these the DRAGOONS are the most inter­esting according to our rules.

Dragoons were Mounted Infantry at this period, NOT cavalry. They contained both Musketeers and Pikemen, rode to battle, and then fought on foot. In our armies we have 4 stands of these highly mobile troops; 2 Musketeer units and 2 Pike units. This forms up into a very effective small infantry unit that can do glorious work for your army:

Our Dragoons are mounted on a 4 inch by 2 inch balsa stand, which is split in two, and which is attached to a cardboard stand. One part of the stand contains one Mounted Dragoon casting (NC105) which acts as the “horse holder”. The other half contains 4 Pikemen or Musketeer models. This half of the stand can be moved off the “mother” stand to “fight on foot” when required.

When the two stands are together on the “mother” stand, we consider the men are mount­ed and they move at cavalry movement. When they fight on foot, the infantry section is moved ‘off the “mother” stand, the horse holder goes to the rear, while the dismounted Dragoons fight onward.

Dragoons on foot have all the prerogatives of “light” troops, but can be totally annihilate if attacked by cavalry when they are mounted!

Special cavalry, firing muskets can be organized (Casting NC-103 and NC-105) as caval­ry musketeers, firing at longer ranges than the pistol-packing regular cavalry.

Another special unit is the Landsknecht long swordsmen (Casting N-109). These men, with their 7 foot long swords, were not used much during the 30 Years War, but it is fun to have a small unit of them to counter the ever persistent Sword and Buckler men. One swipe of this huge sword could cut a Cuirassier in half: So we assume the men who swung these weapons must have been brawny, so we use them as a kind of super-elite close-in fighting unit. And, with these swords they could effectively defend themselves against cavalry. Normally we have 4 stands of these men, and they are brigaded with our attack brigades, or are used in independent actions, such as taking and holding farm houses, etc.

The German “Rieter” (NC-107) is a sort of super-pistol man, getting superior firepower over standard cavalry. They are not good at melee, being trained only for “caracole” pistol fire. Generally, 2 stands per army are enough.

The Turkish troops are generally organized in our army in the same manner as the European troops, and we use them as “mercenary”, rather than “national” soldiers. History shows that at this time the Turks were not great fighters, being better at missile work than melee. So we class them as Musketeers, giving them good firepower, movement, but little ability with the sword. The Mounted archer (NC-118) is con­sidered a “Light” cavalry man, and his arrows are as deadly as a pistol. The Spahi (NC-119) is another heavy cavalryman, but we give all Turks (as mercenaries) a much lower Unit Efficiency rating than our other soldiers.


The following set of rules does not take into consideration the “basic” rules most people use, as we assume these are fairly standard throughout the hobby, and there is no reason to bog down specialized rules for this period with them.

In italics we explain the reasons for the special rules for this game which are based on historic fact.

And of course, these rules are based on the organization of the soldiers as noted ab­ove, and use the Unit Efficiency and Roster System as a base.



Closed Order – when moving stands are touching each other

  1. Can move forward or 45 degree only, at 3 inches per move.

  2. Cannot move backwards in column, but may move backwards in square or in closed line formation.

  3. In Close Order, can only reinforce melees straight ahead of 45 degrees obliquely.

  4. To break from closed to open order must be done at rate of 3 inches on first game move. Thereafter (in open order) move at regular rates.

Open Order – when moving stands are a minimum of one inch apart

  1. Move 6 inches in open order. May “face” new direction at 90 degrees each move.

  2. Pikemen may “charge” into melee in open order, but in doing so cannot finish this movement in closed order. A “Closed Order” charge must have been pre-formed on a prior movement.

(A study of these rules later will reveal “closed order” fighting is very important to Pikemen, and is the standard position they should be in for everything but movement)

Column Formation

  1. A minimum of three moving stands must be formed to make a column of the first 5 stands in a column can be counted in melee.

  2. A column may move an extra two inches over normal move.

  3. Add 1 “kill point” per stand if column charges into a melee. (See Combat Table)

LIGHT PIKEMEN (or unarmored Pikemen, Halbardiers, etc.)
Same basic rules prevail as for Heavy Pikemen, except in CLOSED ORDER:

  1. May move forward 6 inches (same as in Open Order) and “face” at 90 degrees game move.

  2. May break from Closed to Open Order at full 6 inch movement.


  1. May move 6 inches at all times, in any formation, and from closed to open order.

  2. Add 2 inches extra if in column formation.


  1. Move freely 6 inches at all times, in all formations. (For artillery “kill” pur­poses, in “caracole” fire formation are considered in Closed Order)

  2. Add 2 inches extra if in column formation.

HEAVY CAVALRY (Includes Dragoons)

  1. 12 inch normal movement.

  2. Add two inches for column or charge movement.

LIGHT CAVALRY (includes German Rieters)

  1. Move 16 inches normal move.

  2. Add two inches for column or charge move

Movement in the 30 Years War wargame is very important, and it cannot be emphasized too much the restrictions on Pikemen in their movement in closed order. Pikemen may not “wheel” around freely, since in closed order they are thigh to thigh and pike to pike; Thus the reasoning in allowing them only a 45 degree “face” when attempting to change front.

The straight ahead movements of a column are fast, BUT, watch out for those flanks! Or the rear! Better keep some Swordsmen handy to guard these vulnerable positions.

And, since Pikemen cannot face around to the rear under any circumstances, it has often happened that cavalry are suddenly upon this rear line, with woeful results. You’ll find these restricted movement rules will suddenly change your tactics in short order, and that the vulnerable flanks and rear of any Pike formation must be protected with something!

As you will see later in these rules, you MUST put your pike men in closed order when under attack, for in Open order, they will be slaughtered. But, a penalty is paid for the protection offered by closed order formations!


Firepower is a most important factor for both infantry and cavalry. “Kill” factors are based on the “increasing” kill in that the closer you are to the enemy the more your kill. The Combat Tables at the end of the rule section explain this. Besides the range of kill­ing, the defensive action of body armor is considered also.

Caracole” fire was one of the big tactics of the period, developing into a kind of “rolling” fire of lines of cavalrymen or musketeers. The front line of such a formation would blast away, and then peel off to the sides, running to the rear rank, where they comm­enced the complicated task of loading again. By the time this was accomplished they were back at the front rank once again ready to shoot the enemy.

Thus, to use “caracole” fire in our war game it is best to line up your cavalry or musketeers in Column, which will allow you to use every stand in the ensuing firefight.

But, remember it takes musketeers one full game move to reload their muskets. So if you let them empty their muskets completely on one move you’ll be helpless on the next! Experience has taught us to hold at least half the musketeers fire for the next move!

Thus, one finds the fire rules for a 30 Year War Game quite different from any other. For one must use fire and movement in this game, and a careful study of the fire rules below should explain the basic ways you can use cavalry and musketeers in fire fights.


  1. Musketeers may fire on one move, but must reload on the next. They may make a regular movement during this re-loading phase.

  2. Musketeers may “caracole” fire with as many ranks as you have available (see above).


    1. If the Musketeer does not move, he may use a split move. He may advance 3 inches, fire, and retire 3 inches. The player indicates this to his opponent and cannot change his order

    2. Fire and Retire Move – If they have not been moved on game move, Musketeers may fire, and then retire 6 inches. However, if caught in melee in attempting this, they cannot move, and must dice their unit Efficiency to get off a volley at the attackers.

      1. If they were placed in front of a pike line, they cannot be meleed except by attacking infantry. In this case, the attacker takes a volley, and if he wins the ensuing melee, he may continue his charge on into the pike line.

    3. During any of these Split Moves, the Musketeers must “take” enemy fire and casualties before retiring.


  1. Cavalry are considered to be armed with at least two pistols. They may fire one pistol per game move, and even if moving on the next move, can re-load it.

  2. Cavalry may fire BOTH pistols on a game move (thus doubling their kill power), BUT, before they can fire again, they must stand motionless one full game move to reload.

  3. Cavalry Caracole Fire – All cavalry are allowed a split move to perform caracole fire.

    1. This is done by forming a column, allowing each stand a half move forward, a pistol shot (or two), and a half move to return to original position.

    2. During this maneuver, if opposing Musketeers had not moved or fired, they are allowed under Musketeer Rule 3-a above, to move out from behind pike ranks, fire at the enemy cavalry, and retire, taking casualties as allowed under the rules

This may sound complicated, so lets set up an example. Four stands of pistol-packing cavalry are firing at a square of Pikemen, with Musketeers inside. Basically, the first two ranks of cavalry fire into the pikes; the Musketeers jump out pumping their shots into the last two cavalry ranks moving up to fire, who in turn pump their shots into the musketeers, who in turn retire behind the pike line once again. Simple!


You can use your own morale rules for results after fire fights. Normally the loser of morale retires his soldiers behind a supporting line of Pikemen, or into a pike square. These troops, under our rules, cannot take offensive action again until they have been rallied, and must continue retiring until rallied. Normally it costs you Unit Efficiency points also when you lose post-volley morale. In our game, post-volley morale is not nearly as wicked as losing morale after loss of a melee.


Every War gamer has his own rules for Melee, so we do not attempt here to tell you how to fight a melee. Rather, these rules outline various aspects pertaining to melees which portray tactical fighting of the period. Once again, we call your attention to the Combat Table at the end of these rules for “kill” factors and casualties as we use them.


  1. In Closed Order, Cavalry cannot attack them, and only other Pikemen may melee, and in some circumstances Swordsmen can attack (see below)

  2. Pikemen in Open Order can be attacked anytime by anyone, and flanks and rear of Pikemen in both open and closed order are highly susceptible:

    1. If caught in flank, rear, or open order, Pikemen kill only half-their normal quota, and the attacker has double-kill power. The Pike stand thus meleed automatically loses post-melee morale.

  3. Flanks of Pikemen can be protected by a single stand of Musketeers or Swordsmen, but of course can be further attacked by the melee victor on bonus moves.


  1. SHOCK POWER – Heavy cavalry add 4 kills per stand; Light cavalry add 2 kills per stand, for catching enemy troops motionless.

    1. Under our rules, the attacking cavalry always is entitled to shock power, while defenders would dice their Unit Efficiency number to see if they could be placed in motion, or could fire volleys into the attackers.

    2. Defending cavalry successfully “set in motion” eliminate the attackers shock power, while a volley into the attacking cavalry causes casualties but does not cut out the shock power.

  2. Dragoons (see rules for Dragoons) are not considered cavalry, and are not allowed to make charges on horseback.


  1. Musketeers only fight in melee if they are forced to. They are not allowed to attack in melee, nor can they reinforce a melee.

  2. Use normal melee rules if Musketeers are caught in melee, but if they are more than six inches away from supporting Pikemen or cavalry, they are considered to be unsupported, and are automatically whipped in the melee, and must suffer all the losses involved in the rules. The attacker suffers no loss under these circum­stances.


  1. May attack anyone except cavalry. To attack Pikemen in closed order, they must roll their Unit Efficiency number. If they fail, they are moved elsewhere by the player without loss of morale.

  2. Swordsmen have a unique melee function if they are ranked behind Pikemen in any melee.

    1. Both players roll one die for high die. The high throw wins. This means his front rank of Pikemen has “raised” the pikes of the enemy, and this allows his swordsmen to “slip in” UNDER the enemy pikes to get at him with his sword. The results are bad; Double the swordsmen kills if this occurs.

    2. If both sides have swordsmen in ranks behind Pikemen, then the high dice still wins the “double kill” Of course, if the defender wins the high dice throw, it nullifies the action by the swordsmen, or (in b) allows his swordsmen to do the dirty work.


Dragoons are Mounted Infantry, not cavalry. When mounted, move at Cavalry speed. And when dismounted as infantry, follow all Infantry moves as for Pikemen or Musketeers. Horse holding stand (“mother” stand) has no combat value.

  1. Dragoons can make a full cavalry move, dismount into CLOSED ORDER on one game move.

  2. They may mount, move full move, but not dismount on one game move.

  3. They may move half a cavalry move, dismount, move half an infantry move, or vise versa.

  4. They can use any of these moves to reinforce melees, seize terrain positions, fill gaps, attack artillery, etc.

  5. Dragoon musketeers and Dragoon Pikemen follow all combat rules as for regular troops.


THIS RULE forms a most important function in our 30 Years War wargame, and is used only after a melee, not musket fire.

  1. The player who loses morale after a melee must throw one die for each defeated stand of soldiers he has left. Each such stand must retire to the rear as a defeated unit as shown below. These units must continue to retire on each game move until rallied by their Unit Efficiency number, or until they retire off the table top.

Dice a 1 or 2; the unit retires to the left

Dice a 3 or 4; the unit retires straight back

Dice a 5 or 6; the unit retires to the right.

As a result of the Scatter Rule, no “brigade” or cavalry formation will ever retire in one mass, but will be scattered allover the table top.


  1. Winning a Melee

    1. The winner of a melee is allowed to continue the attack by moving his victorious troops into further melee with new enemy troops who are within legal move range

      1. In this event, depending on your own rules, you can fight this new melee out or leave it to be fought out on the next game move.

In our War games, we generally fight this second melee out, allow the victor another bonus move, and then get on with the next game move. Thus, one victorious melee may lead to two bonus moves and one extra melee.

  1. Pursuit by Cavalry

    1. If cavalry were involved in a melee, or are in “close support” of a melee (within six inches by our rules), the cavalry may take a bonus pursuit move of the defeated enemy who have lost the melee.

      1. The losing force does not use the Scatter Rule, but retires a normal cavalry move length behind the melee line, and are set with their backs to the pursuing cavalry. The cavalry of course, pursue these poor fellows, giving it to them in the back at a double-kill ratio, without any loss to themselves. It is an auto­matic defeat for the beaten troops unless:

        1. The retirement of the loser force goes through support troops, who may engage the cavalry, or if the retirement brings the losers force to with in the six inch supporting range, at which time the support troops may engage in the extra melee.

Thus, when you lose a melee, you may be in for deep troubles. The Winner has two beauti­ful choices open to him for Bonus Moves the regular winners move, or the Pursuit by Cavalry move. Either of these can be disastrous, so it behooves one to never let his opponent outnumber him too much in melee, or a whole army can be destroyed on Bonus Moves alone! I have had this happen to me more than once!


This is an extremely important formation for all infantry, and it takes a minimum of two stands to form a square. Normally it is best to form a 4-stand square and any men who can fit inside this square are protected by it.

  1. Cannons can form one face of a square, or can be set in a square’s corners and are counted as part of the square.

  2. Men in square have their Combat Value (Unit Efficiency) upped, but are massed and thus suffer heavier loss to Artillery.

  3. Cavalry cannot attack a square of Pikemen, but can attack Musketeers or Swordsmen squares, but lose their Shock Power kills in doing so.

  4. A Column of Pikemen loses shock power in attacking a square.

  5. Squares may move in all directions at a normal 3 inch per game move movement. (Light Pike square can move 6 inches)

  6. A square is a defensive posture, not an offensive one, and normally cannot be used to attack with.

  7. Should one “face of a square” be swept away by artillery or musketry, and there be no replacement stand to take its place, the square is “broken” and can be attacked by cavalry with the horrifying results that the other outer faces (if Pikemen) are caught in the rear., since they cannot “face” around according to the movement rules.



  1. Prior to the beginning of the War Game, the Large Guns can be set up anywhere on your half of the table top, and you are allowed to set up one full brigade of infantry (or cavalry) to protect these guns.

  2. Thereafter, these guns cannot be moved more than a six inch radius in order to swivel around and fire in any direction.

  3. It takes TWO FULL GAME MOVES to reload these guns after they have been fired.


  1. May be moved an infantry move, and if loaded, may fire at the end of the movement.

  2. Must use one full game move to reload, and cannot be reloaded if it is being moved.


  1. In order to fire or load, crews must be at the gun. Crews may fire the gun and retire immediately behind Pikemen (or square) for protection, but must move back to gun in order to reload, etc.

  2. Crews can be used to man any gun at any time.


  1. Kill opposing gunners at half the normal rate of kill

  2. Takes six hits to destroy large gun; four hits to destroy small gun


  1. Guns are considered captured if held by the player for one full game move. Thereafter it can be moved or worked (only by gunners) as your own.


The Combat Table below shows you our rate of kills for guns, but of course you can set your own as you wish. As for numbers of gunners, we generally use 4 gunners for a large gun and 3 for a small gun. As long as one gunner remains at a gun, it operates at full capacity. If one wants larger crews, he of course can set up fire rules depending on the number of men in the crew, etc.

Type of Soldier

Musket/Pistol Fire Range

In Melee Kill


Point Value per Stand

Unit Efficiency per Stand

1″to 12″

13″ to 18″


Kill 6 points

Kill 3 points

1 point


30 points


Kill 4 Points

Heavy Pikeman

6 points – Closed Order

3″ Closed Order

30 points

5 Closed Order
2 points – Open Order

6″ Open Order

3 Open Order

Light Pikeman

4 points – Closed Order


30 points

4 Closed Order
1 point – Open Order 2 Open Order


4 points


30 points

4 Closed Order
2 Open Order

Heavy Cavalry

1″ to 6″ – Kill 3 points
7″ to 12″ – Kill 2 points

6 points


20 points


Light Cavalry

3 points


20 points



1″ to 12″ – Kill 4 points

2 points


20 points



Throw one die per gun. On a “2” miss, all others are hits.

Gun Size


Close Order Kill

Open Order Kill

Large Gun 20″ to 36″ 10 points 5 points
37″ to 48″ 6 points 2 points
(Cannister) 1″ to 20″ 15 points 7 points
Small Gun 13″ to 24″ 6 points 3 points
25″ to 36″ 4 points 2 points