Designing Rules with Liam…

As I sit-down to write this post, I have no clear direction in mind. I’ve been thinking about the process Liam and I are using to write a set of rules for his games and thought, that maybe others might find the topic of interest…

First, some background. We wanted to create a simple set of rules that Liam could use to play some games with his friends, but we also wanted something that we could expand easily. Our initial target is a Fantasy / Medieval war game. Nothing fancy, just a basic or introductory game. Version 1 of the rules was aimed at 54mm plastic knights. Version 1 was outdated before the first page dropped from the printer!

I should start with sharing some of our basic design parameters. First all info required to play (charts, tables and the like) needs to fit on two sides of an 8 1/2″ x 11″ sheet of paper.  We decided to leave out things like: Formations, Fatigue and Morale. They will be added into the more detailed game, but we felt that for introductory purposes these would just bog things down. We also decided to leave out any complicated command structures (I’m letting turn sequence handle that for now). Keeping things simple allows us to focus on rules for: Turn Sequence, Movement, Melee and Ranged Combat.

Melee combat is simple enough – each player rolls a d6, the high roller score a hit. In version 1, a Hit was the same as a Kill. After some play-testing, we decided to allow the Player to roll for a Save. Liam had wanted to add Hit Points, but I talked him out of that, as I wanted little or no bookkeeping in the game.

Ranged combat is also resolved by the roll of a d6. Make your point and score a Hit – again, we allow player to roll for a Save.

Note: Types or armour or weapons are not accounted for in this game. We will add rules for weapons and armour types, but are keeping it super simple for now.

Artillery is similar to normal (personal weapon) range combat, but I wanted to use some of the ideas from the original Chainmail. For cannon fire we use a range/bounce stick to determine where the projectile hits (roll a d6 for each figure hit). For catapults we use an impact template. roll a d6 for each figure in the impact zone. As always any Hit figures roll for Save.

Movement is, well Movement. We keep it simple. All Foot troops have same movement. All Cavalry has same movement. All Artillery has same (limited) movement. Terrain restrictions are minimal (for now).

Turn Sequence is also fairly simple. Roll for initiative (high roll chooses first or second on the turn). First player for the turn performs any Ranged Combat, Movement and Melee (in that order) for his troops. Player two repeats same.

The above doesn’t cover all of our rules, but it does cover most of the basics. We’ve looked at a number of different rules mechanisms, but keep coming back to our basic rules as being the simplest, fastest and cleanest. There is plenty more to add (and we can do so without making the game too clunky), so our current 1.3 version won’t be the last by any means.

For those curious about our armies; we are using a mix of figures. Many are Mage Knight figures. Some are Hero Clix (but treated as regular warrior rather than super heroes). There are also some number of miscellaneous figures (no idea where they came from). Rounding things out are 30mm Scruby and 25mm Bloodaxe figures. We still have a set of 54mm knights, mostly plastic. We don’t mix these with the smaller figures – we just play a different game (same rules) with those.

Liam and I will be sure to post some pictures from our next battle. We may even post a copy of our rules – but not before some more playtesting!

Product Shuffle

First, I know, last time I said next up would be part two of the Classic 20mm series. Well, part two isn’t quite ready yet; a few more pictures and a scan or two and I should be done. Look for part two on Friday, or safer yet right after the Labor Day holiday.

We’ve recently shuffled some of our product. Since the Bloodaxe Miniatures brand is primarily billed as being budget priced 15mm miniatures we thought it best to move a couple of our 15mm offerings over to the Bloodaxe Miniatures brand.

The first of the ranges to move was our small range of 15mm livestock. Nothing fancy here, just a cow, a dog, a goat and a pig. The dog and pig are the same as those included in our 15mm Hawaiian army packs. The cow and goat are some of my first attempts at sculpting (late 70’s early 80’s).

The second range to make the move is the 15mm American Civil War. These have more or less remained hidden or perhaps more correctly lost on the HistoriFigs site. These figures are the creation of Chris Munro. They are some of his early work (I don’t have an exact time frame, but I’d estimate early to mid 80’s). I’m working on an artillery piece or two for the range, at which point the range will include most of the basic figures one would need for some ACW war gaming.

I still need to add pictures (livestock & ACW) to the Bloodaxe Miniatures website; look for pictures early to middle of next week.

That about wraps things up for the product shuffle. There have been several more updates to the HistoriFigs website, so be sure to pop over to see what is new and improved (well, at least new).

Classic 20mm Part I

Recent correspondence has me thinking that there has been a rediscovery of the classic 20mm figures! I sure hope this is the case as this is one of my favorite figure (choose one: ScalesSizes). To be honest I don’t remember if 20mm or N-Gauge were my first metal figures, to be sure they were Scruby figures. For sure my first war game figures were 20mm (OK, Airfix – call ’em whatever you like size or scale-wise). Sadly I drifted away from the scale. I’m sure that was due more to market trends than personal preference. I’ve re-visited the scale (OK, I’ll commit to the word scale for the remainder of this posting – I’ll discuss scale vs. size as well define what I mean by scale in just a bit) on and off over the years, but never really got back to 20mm as my primary figure scale. However, given some of my recent war game projects this may change, at least in part.

Before we begin, I should explain what 20mm means for me. Your thinking may differ from mine, but at least you will have a better understanding of where I’m coming from…

As we all know there is a wide variety of figure sizes each having its own advantages, appeal and disadvantages. I work with the assumption that a human figure will need to represent a man or woman of approximately 6 feet in height. I realize that not all humans are the same height; as such there will need to be some variations among figures. That said dimensions of weapons and equipment should remain consistent with the scale in question (be it 20mm, 1 inch, 30mm or the new hotness which is 19.675mm).

What Size/Scale is 20mm? From my perspective 20mm is 3.5mm to the foot or 1:86 to 1:90 scale (this will match what can be found in a number of books covering the subject of collecting Toy Soldiers – so, no, I didn’t just make it up). There you have it, plain and simple (or not as many people refer to 25mm (4mm to the foot) or 1:76 to 1:72 as 20mm).

This takes us back to the sticky subject of Size vs. Scale. I’ve heard and read this point argued too many times to count and I don’t plan on arguing it here. Instead I will tell you my thinking on the subject…

When talking about Scale; typically we make our miniatures smaller than life-size. We typically scale down by a constant proportion. Here is where we get the 3.5mm to the foot or 1:86 scale – a Scale model, something made using the same basic proportions as the item being recreated.

When we talk about Size; we are really talking about the physical size of the thing (6 feet tall, 50 meters long). This is where we get the figures sizes like 20mm, 30mm and 40mm – a figure that is 25mm tall is not necessarily made to the same proportions as the real life item being modeled.

Right or wrong, for many years the words Scale and Size have been used interchangeably when referring to miniature figures. I’ve read these mixed references dating back to the 1930’s possibly earlier, so mixing and matching is nothing new.

I look at it this way: Figures are made to some given Size which approximates some Scale (see my definition of 20mm above). Notice the keyword (approximates) in the preceding statement. For the most part I tend to drop the words Scale and Size when talking about figures – a 20mm miniature is a 20mm miniature – it is roughly 20mm tall its scale is approximately 1:86. Not exactly clean, but this is how I look at figure Scales and Sizes. So, from this point forward I’ll refer to 20mm miniatures as just that 20mm miniatures.

Now that Scale vs. Size has been dealt with lets dive into our topic…

My introduction to 20mm [metal] miniatures was in the 1970’s with figures produced by Jack Scruby. Some of these figures were of his own design, others were designed by John Greenwood (Greenwood and Ball) and Holger Eriksson among others. I recall that my first 20mm miniatures were designed for the American Civil War, however, I was converting them for use in the Franco Prussian War. The figures I used were a mix of Scruby, Greenwood and Thomas. The Scruby and Greenwood figures were the easiest to convert. I still have a few of these figures, but not many.

Here I digress for just a minute. Both Scruby and Greenwood referred to 20mm figures as 3/4″ – the figures were approximately 3/4″ tall – the remaining gravity molds for pattern (or dolly, as they are commonly referred to today) figures are all marked as 3/4″ scale.

After my Franco-Prussian War project I switched back to Napoleonic and began to build my Napoleonic armies. The Greenwood and Scruby figures replaced my original (unpainted) Airfix figures. Some of these figures remain in my collection today. Other eras of interest where I used 20mm minatures for my war game armies include: Ancients, The Crusades, The SYW & AWI, WWI and WWII. Each of these will be featured in future posts concerning Classic 20mm miniatures.

That should about wrap up the written portion today’s post – I still have plenty of notes for future posts, so please come back to see what other interesting tidbits I have to share.

To close out today’s posting I’ll share a few photos of 20mm Napoleonic figures from my collection. Some of these figures are a little worse for wear. Some casting date back to the early 1960’s and some are current production. All are in the process of being re-based for use with Scruby’s Fire & Charge rules.

Current Production 20mm British Napoleonic
First up, some current production 20mm British Napoleonic

Current Production 20mm British Napoleonic
Front and Back views

Vintage 20mm French Artillery
Vintage 20mm French Artillery – wheels are plastic

Vintage 20mm Russian Napoleonic
Vintage 20mm Russian Napoleonic

Vintage 20mm Austrian Napoleonic
Vintage 20mm Austrian Napoleonic

Vintage 20mm Austrian Napoleonic Cavalry
Vintage 20mm Austrian Napoleonic Cavalry

Vintage 20mm British Napoleonic
We will close with some Vintage 20mm British Napoleonic

I’ve posted the unedited photos from this session as an album on Picassa Web Albums.
Click here to view the Classic 20mm Photo Album

Coming up next time Classic 20mm Part II – A look at SYW and AWI models in 20mm as well as some bits of trivia and such.

54mm ACW Update

Finally some forward movement with the 54mm re-mold project. We now have a total of 12 figures re-molded. Four Napoleonic (Imperials) and eight ACW. We have four more Napoleonic waiting in line for molding. The next 4 (or maybe 6) ACW are just about ready as well. We should have new molds for these 8 (or 10) by December…

Well, now back to the topic of this post, the eight newly re-molded 54mm ACW figures. The selection of figures to re-mold is more or less random. The first figures to be re-molded are those for which I have masters or patterns. When I run out of masters or patterns, I’ll look for original pattern molds and after that I’ll work with what I can find to recreate any missing figures.

Scruby 54mm Soldiers of the American Civil War:

TT-120 Confederate Infantry, 1863 campaign dress, at ease
TT-121 Confederate Infantry, 1863 campaign dress, advancing cheering
TT-171 Confederate Infantry, 1863 campaign dress, attacking
TT-186 Union Infantry, kepi, firing
TT-309 Union Infantry, advancing, fixed bayonet
TT-310 Confederate Infantry, advancing, fixed bayonet
TT-342 Confederate Officer, frock coat, pistol
9731-14 Union Infantry, kepi, advancing cheering

TT-120 - Confederate Infantry, 1863 Campaign dress, at ease

I’m working on painting up a few batches of these 54mm ACW figures for Liam (he doesn’t know, so don’t tell him). The plan is to allow a few games using some old school rules (likely based on Joe Morschauser’s rules)

TT-309 - Union Infantry, advancing, fixed bayonet

The website has been updated with 54mm figure listings and pictures will be uploaded for all 54mm figures in the next few days.

And now for a new scale. It seems that interest in vintage 20mm figures is on the rise…
Coming up next time a look at some of my 20mm collection and a rough map for a 20mm re-molding project.

Early War Germans…

For the past few months we’ve been working on some new releases for the Resistant Roosters line. The first greens arrived in June and the latest batch arrived last week.

A pattern mold has been created for the first batch and we are in the process of laying out production molds. Early next week a pattern mold will be created for the second batch, with production molds to be created in short order.

Early war is my area of interest, as such you can expect to see more early war offerings in the future. The idea behind this set was to create a flexible, yet less expensive (to produce) set of figures. From our perspective we hit our goals. Production costs are in line with our expectations (given current figure pricing) and there is enough variety in the set to allow for stands without duplicate figures (or at least minimal duplication on a single stand).

Early War Germans

This first part of the set depicts Early War Germans in field cap. Today’s pictures show painted examples of German troops in field cap. Figures in the second batch of greens represent Early War Germans in helmet.

Early War Germans

Our sample figures were painted by Randy F. who had this to say about the castings he received:

The figures were easy to paint.
The details are well defined and easy to reach.
They also have enough character to make them interesting.
I like the way the figures model a unit moving across a field.

Early War Germans

Our initial release will consist of three (3) platoon packs:

  • Grenadier/Panzergrenadier Rifle Platoon in Field Cap
  • Grenadier/Panzergrenadier Rifle Platoon in Helmet
  • Grenadier/Panzergrenadier Rifle Platoon mixed field cap & helmet

We are still working out details for further expansion of Early War Germans. Our initial thoughts were post Poland organization, thus the lack of a light mortar section; however, we may revisit this and add a light mortar team as an option in a larger Company Box offering.

Molds and casting should be complete in early September – look for a release announcement around the 7th.

As for our next Resistant Roosters release, we are looking at Soviets circa 1939 – think Winter War…

Coming up next time, a look at our recently remolded 54mm Scruby Soldiers of the American Civil War.